![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_975572188fee4dc88f68e8f43a9b375a~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1500,h_885,al_c,q_85,enc_avif,quality_auto/7ef0db_975572188fee4dc88f68e8f43a9b375a~mv2.jpg)
1870s Fashion
1870s Fashion
The Trends
The Trends
The Trends
1870s Fashion Businesses
Early Springfield, like many Midwestern towns, saw the majority of businesses collect around the town square. It was first documented on paper in December of 1823 when the town of Calhoun (later Springfield) was platted and filed with the Sangamon County Clerk, the county being established less than two years before. The physical organization of public squares are valued by modern residents and tourists for their visual appeal and easy navigation but it was these same conveniences that prompted many towns to construct them.
The public square in Springfield is the basis for the discussion of fashion business in the town, and when analyzed over a period of time becomes a physical representation of the growth of both the city and its population, as well as a means to explain society's acceptance of trends and advances in fashion. The most important source used in this aspect of the project is the city directory, an annual publication and predecessor to the phone book. An example to the right shows the Business Directory which is organized by trade and provides business names and addresses.
The early city directories typically refer to the general location, for example, in 1872, C. Wolf & Co. can be found on the west side of the square above Adams Street. As businesses on and near the square began to grow and the adoption of street numbers was established, the directories became more specific. It is these addresses that are used to create interactive maps for each decade discussed within this project (1870-1915).
![1872.2_edited.jpg](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_5c01d495399844698201e75e7ee42421~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_306,h_486,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/1872_2_edited.jpg)
1872 Springfield Fashion Businesses
All icons can be clicked to show the name of the business, while colorized symbols denote Black-owned businesses, additional images, and advertisements.
![boot.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_12d2e306415d4e36b87d1c4fcdd75540~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_35,h_35,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/boot.png)
Boots and Shoes
![label.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_e201899bfe3148529d881afc1b696a87~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_31,h_31,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/label.png)
Clothier
![clothes.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_0754d15813d741ad81530568c72aa8af~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_36,h_36,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/clothes.png)
Dressmaker
![tie.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_13f39ba1a5c940ee827c3c9c7c160790~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_38,h_38,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/tie.png)
Gentlemen's Furnishing Goods
![hat outline.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_74aaf3670f134a6dbabffd7017ec775e~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_39,h_39,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/hat%20outline.png)
Hats, Caps, Furs, and Accessories
![necklace.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_a1ce5fcce42645618b1405de59a843c0~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_31,h_31,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/necklace.png)
Jeweler
![hat.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_f35aa66dce09416ebbbef5be3998d8df~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_35,h_35,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/hat.png)
Milliner
![sewing.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_431c4e6e78f94a07abc9d437a786460f~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_31,h_31,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/sewing.png)
Tailor
The 1870s saw a rise in specialized fashion businesses, specifically clothiers and gentlemen's furnishing goods. Before this time there were some ready-made choices, typically found in dry goods stores, but it was more common for individuals to purchase their fashion supplies and make their own clothing or commission them. Many businesses that began as dry goods stores would expand to become large scale clothiers, tailors, and eventually department stores, John Bressmer and and R. F. Herndon being particularly well known.
Beginning in the middle of the nineteenth century, Springfield's population grew rapidly and by 1870, the population was documented at 17,364 people, an eighty-six percent increase from ten years before. Springfield continued to grow throughout the late 1800s and its fashion businesses had to do the same. Not only to keep up with the steady influx of residents, but to accommodate the increase in fashion as a commodity. After the Civil War and years of rationing, Americans were eager to embrace new fashion trends and technological advances. Mass production of fabrics and other clothing materials, along with transcontinental rails allowed for a new system of production and consumption.
![bressmer.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_5524e097db144482be7c9c22068c9352~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_600,h_327,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/bressmer.png)
"Report on the Statistics of Wages in Manufacturing Industries; with Supplementary Reports on the Average Retail Prices of Necessaries of Life, and on Trades Societies, and Strikes and Lockouts," 1886.
Potential customers, especially those in the rising middle class, were marketed to like never before. Newspaper were the easiest for local businesses, while periodicals and ladies' magazines like Godey's Lady's Book and Harper's Bazaar became staples in the home during this time. The lady’s magazines were the first to present trends through fashion plates. These were mass produced images of contemporary fashions accompanied by articles and how-to's. As printing techniques and mail-order catalogs made home delivery easier, the advertisements in these publications became more sophisticated and not unlike modern ads. Newspaper ads like the ones below were typically all text and promoted the merchant's wares and reviews (often fabricated for style) of happy customers. The use of words like "fine, fancy, best, modern, novelties," all impressed the up to date products and played on the idea that consumers with disposable income choose their fashions with the intent of competing with the wealthy.
![fashionplates_0001 (1).jpg](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_0f085793c5df45ddbc9e46a681f2176f~mv2_d_2468_3488_s_4_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_360,h_509,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/fashionplates_0001%20(1).jpg)
Frank Leslie's Lady's Magazine, 1873
![ads Daily_Illinois_State_Journal_1873-04](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_e3002dc68a6c46cfba85f72009ebf6e5~mv2_d_1601_5098_s_2.png/v1/crop/x_110,y_172,w_1491,h_4832/fill/w_157,h_509,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/ads%20Daily_Illinois_State_Journal_1873-04.png)
Daily Illinois State Journal, 1873, 4.
![Picture2_edited.png](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_1dcc35fea5114f69ab4c20f331cff336~mv2.png/v1/crop/x_0,y_17,w_380,h_620/fill/w_312,h_509,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/Picture2_edited.png)
Officer & Peabody Advertisement
Springfield City Directory, 1874.
![Pietz West Side of Square North End ISH](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_1f93e630e5d6417daa7368d299ccedc6~mv2_d_3744_4336_s_4_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_344,h_398,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/Pietz%20West%20Side%20of%20Square%20North%20End%20%20ISH.jpg)
Photographed by Henry Pietz, c. 1870-85
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
![herdon new Daily_Illinois_State_Journal_](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7ef0db_a77899ca99d9451d83102d985bec3341~mv2_d_1827_2209_s_2.png/v1/crop/x_28,y_17,w_1656,h_2181/fill/w_302,h_398,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/herdon%20new%20Daily_Illinois_State_Journal_.png)
Daily Illinois State Journal, c. 1874
[1] Richard E. Hart, The Public Square: (1823-1865) (Springfield: Elijah Iles House Foundation, 2004), 1.
[2] SangamonLink, “Populations Changes.”
[3] Joseph D. Weeks. "Report on the Statistics of Wages in Manufacturing Industries; with Supplementary Reports on the Average Retail Prices of Necessaries of Life, and on Trades Societies, and Strikes and Lockouts," Department of the Interior: U.S. Census Office (1886), 8.