1870s Fashion
1870s Fashion
The Trends
The Trends
The Trends
1900-1915 Fashion
The tendency towards soft and feminine fashions of the 1890s continued into the twentieth century, with the traditional emphasis on a small waist. While the large leg-of-mutton sleeves of the previous trend decreased in volume, the fabric shifted to the front of the blouse and the train of the skirt. The use of yoking and pleating on blouses had become popular, but in the 1900s the look took on a life of its own, especially with the introduction of the health corset. The new style in corsetry was introduced by Dr. Inès Gashes-Sarraute in the attempt to support the stomach from below rather than forcing flesh and organs below the corset. This new shape would be known as the S-bend and forced the chest forward, a look that women found aligned with the fashionable full chest style blouse, or monobosom. Many women emphasized this full look in their blouses by utilizing these new corsets, highly decorated corset covers and even padding.
Skirts changed little in shape from the 1890s, but rather than relying on gored skits to achieve a flowing affect, skirt hems were in tulip styles, and decoration in the form of pleats, and added lace. Tailored suits continued to be popular, especially when paired with a blouse or shirtwaist. The use of light-colored lace, for those who could afford it, became a staple in the wardrobe of the twentieth century woman and often comprised entire dresses. For those who could not have entire dresses of lace, the use of repurposed lace either in the construction of the dress or in decoration was an alternative. The reign of light colors is one of the most recognizable aspects of this period, so much so that Alison Gernsheim states that “In the early twentieth century white was more worn than at any time since the days of Napoleon I, even by middle-aged women.”
Photographed by Kessberger, c. 1900
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Springfield High School, Graduating Class of 1900
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
“Robbie” & Minnie JS Stewart, c. 1900-07
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
The resemblance to Regency and Napoleonic fashion does not end with the color of women’s ensembles, but rather a resurgence of the most recognized aspects of early 1800s fashion. As the health corset fell out of favor at the end of the 1900s, the trends shifted towards the opposite end of the fashion spectrum and the desired shape was cylindrical. The desire for a slim appearance allowed for a corset that extended over the hips and the abandonment of layered underskirts. The waistline rose to just below the bust and bright colors returned to day wear, with decoration in the form of layers of thin fabrics like silk and tulle covered with beading and appliques were preferred for evening looks. This narrow cut of garments would be indicative of the late 1900s, and commonly associated with “Titanic Era” fashion.
One accessory that persevered through the early 1900s and into the 1910s was the hat. They came in simple styles in the form of boaters and caps, but the most recognizable of the time are the large and extravagant hats variations. When the light dresses were fashionable in the early part of the 1900s, the lingerie hat was a favorite, being light in color and soft in shape, it pared well with the lace and cotton dresses for day wear. Towards the end of the decade, the merry widow hat, and large styles like the cartwheel, were worn with the slim styles, giving women an umbrella like appearance. These hats were often decorated with flowers and feathers, and continued to grow in circumference, reaching their largest form in 1911.
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1900-07
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1900-09
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1905-12
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
These hats covered hair that also continued to increase in size. The pompadour and Gibson style were common, creating a hair halo, styled in a way that would not hinder the new hat styles. Technological advances during this time were affecting the way women treated and wore their hair. Auburn colored hair was popular, and henna was used to achieve the color. In addition to the use of chemicals, heat, and even electricity helped to alter the natural state of hair. When these methods were not enough, women turned to supplementing their coiffures, not unlike 1870s practices, by implementing padding and hair pieces. Decorative pins and combs were used in the absence of hats, and by the end of the 1900s, bandeaus and metallic head pieces adorned women’s hair in the evening.
Illinois Pharmaceutical Convention group, 1909
Image courtesy the Sangamon Valley Collection
C. 1905
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Into the 1910s, day wear continued to be tubular dresses with high waists but the hem length shorted and the use of asymmetry became popular. This is most evident in the use of vertical buttons on skirts and overcoats and the short-lived hobble skirt trend, which restricted the skirt around he ankles. In the nineteen teens, hem lengths shortened even more, as styles became less restrictive and informal. Collars no longer encircled the neck and were often low V-necks covered filled in by modesty fabric.
The tailored suit of the 1890s and 1900s gave way to the loose skirt and jacket combination of the 1910s. Comprised of simple skirts ending above the ankle and long jackets that extended to mid-thigh. These jackets were usually secured by a belt or sash and topped with a small, or “smart” hat. Drooping collars, layers on the torso and tiered effects in the skirts are indicative of the pre-war styles.
Easter, 1912
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
C. 1912, Image courtesy of
the Sangamon Valley Collection
C. 1909 Image courtesy of the
Sangamon Valley Collection
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1909-12
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
C. 1913-17
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Pleasant Grove Baptist Church, c.1910-15
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Men’s fashion changed at a faster rate than ever before, with trends loosely following those of female fashions. For example, as women’s sleeves and s-bend silhouette created a wider appearance, men’s jackets became wider at the shoulder creating a boxy affect. Jackets in this style were the preferred item for most middle and upper-class men for day wear, with the 1880s round cut frock coat being common with business men and doctors. Stiff detachable collars, some worn in a dramatic turned down style, cuffs, and ties were the accessories pared with the sack suit.
Lincoln's final burial, 1901
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
C. 1904-10
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Towards the end of the decade, as women’s fashions narrowed, so did those of men. The jacket was no longer wide at the shoulder, and was tailored to fit the torso, and extended past the hip, created an elongated appearance. Trousers were created tighter around the leg and the hem no longer flared over the shoe but rather ended at the top of the foot and could be cuffed for a more dramatic affect. While women were experimenting with large decorated hats, men’s head wear changed little from the nineteenth century. Derbys, fedoras, straw boaters, and flat newsboy style caps were the most common with men of all economic levels, with the top hat be relegated to evening wear of the rich.
C.1912
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Buckley Family, c.1914
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
The style of children’s clothing changed little, with the most novel change being the ease at which it could be purchased from ready-made and department stores. Older children continued to be miniature styles of adults, with babies wear shapeless dress in light colors. Young boys wore suits with jackets, sailor styles, as well at the Fauntleroy suit. Boater and newsboy caps were common head wear for boys and young men.
Girls and young women sported simplified styles worn by women, typically with shorter hem lengths, black stockings and tall boots, as well as feminine touches like bows and frills. Both boys and girls in the toddler years can be seen wearing the Russian blouse, a tunic style garment belted at the hips. It was during this time that the clothing of children became less restrictive as an emphasis on childhood and playing were promoted among middle class families.
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1901-10
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Photographed by George Burleigh, c.1900
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1900-12
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Booth-Grunendike Collection, c. 1905-1912
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Rose Franks, 1913
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
[1] Alison Gernsheim, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: a Photographic Survey, (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1981), 84.
[2] Grahame Turner, "Children's Clothing in the 1900s," Our Everyday Life, September 27, 2017, , accessed October 30, 2018, https://oureverydaylife.com/childrens-clothing-in-the-1900s-12485202.html.