1870s Fashion
1870s Fashion
The Trends
The Trends
The Trends
1890s Fashion
Sewing circle group photo, 1895
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Just as the highly decorated and colorful ensembles of the 1870s influenced the rise in structure and dark fabrics during the 1880s, it is only natural that the trends of the 1890s would deviate from the preceding fashions. The tailored look and emphasis on the waist would continue, but rather than taking inspiration from men’s suits and military styles, women’s suits and separates were meant to evoke femininity through pastel colors, an excess of fabric, and lace and bow accents. From hats and bodices to the skirt, everything grew in width and circumference, drawing attention to the waist which was made as small as possible.
Photographed by Call & Hurt, c. 1891-92
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Group photo, 1890-96
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
The blouse or shirtwaist came in many forms, colors, and patterns. Early in the decade they would have large sleeves extended the length of the shoulders. By 1895 the yoked blouse would force the sleeves to the side of the arm and eventually shrinking to a small “puff.” The shirtwaist was the preferred fashion by this time and were not the structured and lined bodices of the decades before and relied on corsetry to shape the body while the garment itself allowed for a range of movement. This loose style was accentuated in the later part of the 1890s by vertical pleats decorating the front and would be the precursor for the monobossom or pigeon breast of the 1900s.
The volume of previous skirts had been relegated to the small of the back by the bustle but by the turn of the decade, and the volume had been shifted to the hem of the skirt, pared with increasing large sleeves, the goal was to create an hourglass shape, not just at the waist but through the entire ensemble. The skirt was no longer held tight at the legs but was cut in a traditional A-line shape that was gored to create narrow flairs along the hem. The length also increased covering the shoes which had been visible during the 1880s, as well as creating a small train at the back. The skirt would typically be one color with little ornamentation, which allowed for the new style of “mix and match.”
Photographed by Henry Halliday, c. 1900
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Photographed by John Henry Ross, c. 1892-1900 Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Photographed by John Henry Ross, c. 1892-1900 Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Photographed by Call & Hurt, c. 1891-92
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Previously, the wearer would commission or purchase an ensemble consisting of the skirt and bodice, often choosing both a day and evening bodice. In the 1890s the bodice was still in use, but the blouse became the popular option. This allowed many women to style their ensembles like men had before, by purchasing separate pieces, or at the most buy a skirt and tailored jacket together. This freedom in choice and growth of the, ready-made market would alter everyday fashion forever. These suits were the preferred style for day wear and sports like tennis and bicycling.
When participating in these sports, the boating hat was very popular, typically paired with a necktie and blouse. Hats of this time were much different than the toques and flower pot hats of the 1880s. They grew in circumference and were highly decorated by flowers, feathers, and at times, entire taxidermied animals. The hair under the hats also grew, with many women sporting the top-knot or Gibson girl style which created the illusion of a “hair halo.” Hair would remain in a bouffant style, but hats would only grow larger, as an essential aspect to 1900s fashion, they would expand to massive proportions.
Booth-Grunendike Collection , c. 1895-1900
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Photographed by Henry Halliday, c. 1895-1900
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Photographed by Kessberger & George, c. 1898-1900
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Booth-Grunendike Collection , c. 1890-1900
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Photographed by L. Sperry Anderson, c. 1890-1900
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Booth-Grunendike Collection , c. 1890-1900
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Photographed by William N. Sweet, c. 1898
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Men’s fashion would follow women’s, from the preferred dark hues of the 1880s to bright colors and flashy patterns. The jackets changed little, with small changes to the length of sleeves which were shortened slightly to show the shirt cuff, as well as the shrinking of the lapel. The centerpiece would continue to be the vest. In the spring of 1896 the Daily Illinois State Register described these vibrant colors as reminiscent of the early nineteenth century, stating, “pink, yellow, blue, scarlet, green, rose, violet and mauve seem destined to come and crowd into the shade of the famed waistcoats of the dandies of a hundred years ago.” Another noticeable change to the top half of men’s fashions was the collar, which towards the end of the decade would be in the “butterfly” style. These were often high, up to three inches, with very small creases, giving the appearance of a winged creature at the neck. These collars were often detachable and utilized by middle class men to maintain the life of their shirts without the high prices of constant laundering.
Photographed by Call & Hurt, c. 1891-92
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Booth-Grunendike Collection , c. 1890-1900
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Springfield Marine bank, c. 1890-1900
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Photographed by Fred D. Burleigh, c. 1894-98
Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Trousers continued to be tight against the leg and just like jackets, came in a variety of patterns with stripes and checks being the most common. One noticeable change during the 1890s was the vertical crease in the trousers, giving them a tailored and flared look. This look was often popular with those with disposable income who could have the pants starched, as well as intentionally paring this look with the pointed boots popular at the time, making the hem look even more flared. Keeping with tradition, the final piece of clothing for any man’s ensemble was the hat. The derby and boating hat were preferred for sporting and summer, and many men during this time began to adopt the Homburg, or fedora, a hat popularized by Edward, Prince of Wales.
Grace (Hammond) Leonard and Husband, 1895
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
Booth-Grunendike Collection , c. 1895-1900
Image courtesy of the UIS Archives
Children's fashions of the 1880s, like the Fauntleroy and sailor suits, were still used for young boys while girls still wore simplified versions of women’s fashions. Some changes in dresses can be seen through the raising of the waist, and the use of voluminous sleeves, and sailor collars, often paired with shin-high boots and black tights. An accessory popular at the time was the cape, which was used by both young girls and women. Because of the large sleeves of the time, it made wearing a traditional coat difficult, so the capelet and floor length cape were common types of outerwear.
Photographed by Henry Halliday, c. 1898-1900 Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Photographed by Henry Halliday, c. 1898-1900 Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Photographed by L. Sperry Anderson, c. 1895-1900 Image courtesy of Richard E. Hart
Lillian Eielson and her son Harry, 1898
Image courtesy of the Sangamon Valley Collection
[1] Daily Illinois State Register, March 15, 1896, 10.
[2] Alison Gernsheim, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: a Photographic Survey (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1981), 82.