1870s Fashion
1870s Fashion
The Trends
The Trends
The Trends
1890s Fashion Businesses
By 1890, the population of Sangamon County was 61,195, with 24,963 of those individuals residing in Springfield, a twenty-six percent increase for the city. The population continued to rise but fashion business did not expand at previous rates, with only twenty-four new map-able businesses. There are two noticeable trends in the operational businesses of this decade, a decrease in specialization with a trend towards department stores and an increase in dressmakers. When looking to the 1891 map, there is a dramatic increase in dressmakers, many of whom run their businesses outside and at times, far from the town square. Dressmaking has historically been a popular choice for women in the workforce, explained by the Bureau of Labor Statistics in 1916 which states, "Custom dressmaking and millinery, the most seasonal of all trades, show opportunities for self-development and financial advancement discovered in few other industries open to the women of limited education." The reliance on skilled dressmakers continued into the twentieth century but decreased after World War One when ready-to-wear because the preferred method of shopping.
Dressmaking provided financial support for women, but for women of color, it was often one of the few choices available to them outside of the service industry. Of the five city directories mapped for this project, the 1891 publication was the first to list the race of an entrepreneur in the local fashion industry. Miss Maria Turner, listed among the Springfield dressmakers, has the abbreviation "col'd" sandwiched between her name and address. There is little research regarding the influence of city directories on a community's residents and businesses, but it can be assumed that the inclusion of race was done for the white shoppers. It was a way to document the people of color in the city which was then used to inform the decisions of white consumers. While this was most likely the intent, it could have also been helpful for
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Springfield City Directory 1891, 25.
people of color, not only in making Black-owned businesses visible, but providing power over their own buying practices. They could open the directory and automatically know at which businesses they would be welcomed. Additionally, when studying the business directory the only other mention of a Black entrepreneur was under "painter," with no inclusion of the abbreviation in businesses like grocers, butchers, or mills. It is hard to believe that there were no such owners so why would the Black painters and dressmakers be denoted? With the knowledge that many dressmakers worked from home and painters made their living improving residences and businesses, it is possible that their relationship to the home, either as the owner or contractor, would require a special recognition. Into the 1900s, the practice would shift, and all Black-owned businesses were listed as such. To maintain the visibility of businesses owned by Black residents, as specified by the city directory, all instances on the interactive maps will be designated by a colorized icon, similar to those with additional images and advertisements.
1891 Springfield Fashion Businesses
All icons can be clicked to show the name of the business, while colorized symbols denote Black-owned businesses, additional images, and advertisements.
Tailor
Milliner
Jeweler
Hats, Caps, Furs, and Accessories
Gentlemen's Furnishing Goods
Dressmaker
Clothier
Boots and Shoes
The Sunday Journal, Sept. 25, 1892, 3.
Daily Illinois State Register, March 24, 1897, 7.
The Delineator 45, no. 2 (1895): 159.
Souvenir of Springfield, 1890, 10.
Courtesy of the UIS Archives
The Daily Illinois State Journal, Dec. 3, 1899, 14.
[1] SangamonLink, “Populations Changes.”
[2] May Allinson, “Dressmaking as a Trade for Women in Massachusetts.” PhD diss., (Columbia University, 1916), 6, Accessed October 12, 2018, https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=nyp.33433007342664;view=1up;seq=6;size=75.